creekbottom Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 I have some scale build up on a new tank I got used. The vinegar trick didn't work so someone suggested muriatic acid. How do I do this? Normally I would put paper towel on the area I wanted to treat and then soak it with vinegar. Will that still work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 Muriatic is a strong acid (vinegar is a weak acid), and will react immediately upon contact until it's completely exhausted. Wear gloves, and do it in a well ventilated area... and don't wear good clothes. It's essentially very strong bleach, and will discolor or even eat a hole in whatever clothing it touches, even if diluted (ie, if it splashes when rinsing it off). The nice thing about it being a strong acid, is that there will be no residue - it will react until it's completely exhausted. At worst, you'll have slightly acidic water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkSolid Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) Muriatic Acid or Hydrochloric Acid is IMO the best option in terms of acids because it disassociates into hydrogen and chlorine ions which can easily be mitigated with Prime, or reacts and is neutralized into a salt which is also not a big deal. Some think using it is overkill, but its chemistry is safe for tanks, and it can make your job a lot easier :-) Just please protect yourself (dont forget your eyes) and make a volcano with some baking soda while your at it. Edited February 22, 2016 by FunkSolid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psylant Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 I have a few tanks/pieces of glass kicking around that could definitely use this treatment. Thanks for the idea lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creekbottom Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 So this needs to stay off the silicone? I've read some google searches that have given some good ideas about using this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 I doubt it'll wreck silicone; once cured silicone is inert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckmullin Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 watch the fizz, watch your eyes, watch the fumes...only work outdoors or if indoors on use small...a few ml quantities at a time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkSolid Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Yeah the silicone will be just fine, and you will be too with the right PPE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creekbottom Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I still have my eyes and all my skin!! Didn't even wreck any clothes. Didn't really work though I think the glass is etched permanently but with it filled I can't see the stains. I tried on a different piece of glass and the hard water stains came right off though so it definitely works quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkSolid Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I have a 30 gallon like that. I got it used and horrifically dirty and after giving it a nice acid bath it looked like crap, really cloudy... Until I put water into it and it looks fine. Howd that Muriatic volcano work out? (jk) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjerrom Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Or use CLR and a scotch bright pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkSolid Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 CLR makes me super nervous because it contains Lauramine Oxide a surface surfactant (which has some very unique chemical property's considering its structure), which is highly toxic in really small concentrations. I think its LC50 is around 2.5mg/L in native freshwater fish, which might tolerate it a bit better than exotic fish. CLR requires a lot of effective rinsing if your using it to clean internal surfaces and equipment, so please use caution. Having said that I have used it on a few tanks because that was my only acid at the time, but IMO its a big risk, and maybe not worth it. Lastly its VP (Volcano Potential) is pitiful in contrast to Muriatic Acid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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