DAY TWO:
I will have to break this into smaller posts due to limit of nine pictures allowed in a single post.
After 8 hours the dust and muck have settled. Time to add some Seachem Flourite (root) Tabs to the substrate. If you ever need to remove gravel from a tank with water in it, try a lenght of 3/4 auto heater hose like shown. It will fill a 5 gallon pail in no time so you need a helper to move pails. Put your finger over the end in the tank to stop the flow.
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First I start to label the cords to help sort out the maze of wiring with a Brother label printer.
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Next the pressurized CO2 will be added and luck has it the cabinet is tall enough for a 10 pound bottle.
There are many types of washers to seal between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator. I switched all mine over to the Permaseal brass O-ring type after losing a tank of CO2 to reusing a fiber washer. I had been told you should replace the fiber or plastic seals every time you change the cylinder.
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Installing the permaseal onto the cylinder. Not all CO2 bottles have the inner threads for these types of washers!
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The pH controller will turn the CO2 solenoid on and off to maintain the set pH. My tap water is 7.8 pH and by adding CO2 it will drop the pH to 6.7. It is recommended that you do not let the pH probe dry out once it has been used. I have tested the unit with a store bought 7.0 pH test solution.
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I will be using a glass diffuser and an Elite In-Tank filter ($12) to dissolve the CO2 into the water. I was running the filter without the ceramic air stone before, but adding this really made the CO2 bubbles into a finer mist. It really is simple to add the CO2 with this filter, all I had to do was cut a small piece of the grill on the bottom to push the line through. The foam all ready had a hole cut out the size of the ceramic CO2 diffuser.
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A drop checker will also be used to monitor the CO2 levels in the tank. The solution will be blue when CO2 is low, green when CO2 reaches about 30 ppm, and yellow when CO2 gets really high. This CAL AQUA "Double Check" Drop Checker has two "bubbles", one contains a pre-mixed solution of 4dKH solution and Bromothymol Blue pH indicator solution which changes color with CO2 concentration, and the other is a reference color to compare with.
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The instructions that come with this drop checker say to use aquarium water in the drop checker. Not a good idea as then drop checker may or may not work right depending on your water, any buffers used, etc. You can make a 4 or 5 dKH solution of distilled water and baking soda, but the measurements are tough to do without graduated cylinders to measure the water and a centigram scale to measure out the baking soda.
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The instructions to make 4 or 5 dKH solutions are
HERE
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- The CO2 system is now installed at 2:15pm. CO2 rate set to about 4 bubbles per second. I have super-high GH and KH so it takes a lot of CO2 to lower the pH.
- One hour later the pH has dropped 0.1 and the drop checkers are still blue.
- At 6:00pm the pH is at 7.5.
- By 9:00pm, the pH was at 7.3 and the drop checkers are blue-green color.
- At 1:00am, pH at 7.2. There is a fair amount of surface agitation with H2O level lower than usual. Bumped up CO2 to about 6 bubbles per second.
Time to figure out how much dry fertilizers to dose. The Ferti-lator at APC (Aquatic Plant Central) is a very handy calculator used to find dosage for fertilizers.
Link to Ferti-lator at APC
For a 55 gallon (US) tank
KNO3 >1 teaspoon >15ppm
KH2PO4 >0.0625 teaspoon
*1 Pinch* >1.1ppm
K2SO4 >0.5 teaspoon >17ppm
Flourish Iron >2ml >0.1ppm
*Dash-Pinch-Smidgen measuring spoon sets can be bought at Canadian Tire.*
Dash=1/8 tsp
Pinch=1/16 tsp
Smidgen=1/32 tsp
That doses the N-P-K and iron, I also added Seachem Excel, Stability, Trace, and Flourish Comprehensive. It is best to dose Iron by itself to prevent problems. :shifty:
Hmmm... have substrate... have water... have ferts... have CO2... plants next :smokey:
This post has been edited by byte: 12 March 2009 - 08:03 AM