canuckle

After 6 long years, we're heading back to Calgary. Can't wait. Hope to reconnect with some of the gang on here when we're settled (May). Yahoo! Mike

I like trickle filters as well. They help to aerate the aquarium. X2 on the trickle filter, LOVE mine. No heaters in the tank, no intakes, etc. Lots of room for media, and easy to maintain.

OK, finally figured out the photobucket deal...

OK, finally got them to cooperate ( a little). We're still looking for the killer pic, but here's what we have so far...having a hard time using the attachment system??

Wow, you guys must REALLY be bored, lol. Sorry to hear you're not still breeding FISH Neil, you had some of the nicest labs around... roypark, thanks for the kind comments. Hoping to have some pics to share soon...I'm not particularly happy with the aquascaping yet, but it's coming. I'm pretty happy with the fish selection so far, drove to Winnipeg to hand select (5.5 hours there and back on a Sunday, ugh). First time for me keeping OB's and I have to say I like 'em a lot. Also really liking the dominant Ps Polit male, he's hooded almost all the time and looks great. Gotta get him his females though, he's really pissed! Going to try some homemade caves to bury in the sand, went a little deeper with the sand bed to accomodate this (3"), though they're still digging right down to the eggcrate.

LOL, thanks buddy. Are you still breeding?

Hey Neil, You can see the tank now at http://www.cichlid-forum.com/tanks/ ...it's about half way down the first page of recent updates. The basic setup is pretty similar to the first time around, though I'm going to add a few more hidey holes as I have less rock this time around. Mike

LOL, great question Neil, I was back and forth on it. Basically wanted to have something that was more of a top 1/2 of tank/open water swimmer in the mix as well as the Mbuna. Still all Malawi, and I haven't decided on keeping them in there long term. Time will tell, though with my previous tank I had them in there as well and they did fine.

Hi gang, So, it's been awhile but we're back in the fish world...we've moved a couple of times in a couple of years and haven't had the chance to set up, but this weekend we put in our stock and we're off to the races. Pics coming soon, but in the meantime here's the stock list and description... 180g show tank 55g filter tank (floss, ceramic rings) Sand bottom (natural brown, pool filter sand) Stock (all are 20-25% male) (4) Metriaclima sp. "Msobo" (15) Melanochromis cyaneorhabdos (Maingano) (8) Metriaclima estherae (OB) (8) Labeotropheus fuelleborni (Katale OB) (8) Labidochromis caeruleus (Kakusa) (3) Pseudotropheus polit (all males, females coming later this month) (3) Copadichromis azureus

Finally got the canopy done, with the T5 lights...you should see it now!! We're pretty happy with it! punman, any of us that have done sumps would be happy to help. tc51 is actually coming to my place soon to see the setup, and I'll be helping him get his going. Not that I'm any big expert or anything, but having done it a couple of times now, I can tell him what NOT to do!

Fair enough. A couple of things to consider, IME... 180g is 72x24x24 (usually) Overflow would be about 6x6, maybe smaller, in a rear corner Overflow doesn't significantly reduce the tank footprint Filtration is MUCH better, and cheaper, for a tank that size Maintainance after setup is far less than HOB or cannister (HOB I know from experience, cannister is only what I've been told) Water volume in system is significantly increased, ie. 55g sump on 180g tank means you can run about another 30g of water volume. Just some thoughts Mike

Hey there, Any particular reason you don't want to go with a sump? Probably a lot cheaper in the long run with a tank that size...I run a sump on our 180g and it does a great job.

Hey all. A quick recap of my ich experience, just after I got into the hobby. I went through almost the same process, using meds first (mine was QuIck Cure). I'm completely convinced that the 4 fish I lost were due to the meds. Through trial and error, here is the treatment I will use when I have to deal with it again... Raise temp to 85/86 gradually (over 24 hour period) Increase salt to a total of 5 Tablespoons per 5 gallons (this seems high, but 2 good friends have used this level with a variety of cichlids with no ill effects). Drop water level at least 3 inches below the return of the HOB filters. Reduce feeding. Dim or turn off lights. Keep these conditions for a minimum of 14 days, or 5 days after I haven't seen any spots. Return water temp and salt content to normal slowly (at least 3-4 days) Just my 2 cents!

Actually, no. If you read the article, the UGJ system is powered independantly, and is self contained. Usually powered by a powerhead. It's primary purpose is to keep the detrius suspended to allow it to get to the overflow and into the filtration system. That, combined with the flow from the pump return, gives enough current and circulation in the show tank to keep the sand clean, and move the detrius to the overflow. Not saying yours won't work, just that it might be a bit complex for the need. I'm a simple guy.

Seems there's some confusion between Under Gravel Jets(UGJ) and Under Gravel Filter (UGF). From my understanding, UGJ are intended to be used with an overflow/sump. Purpose being to keep detrius from settling on the sand or gravel. Screens are not necessary as the flow is coming OUT, not going IN. For UGF, it's a very different setup. UGF with sand is not recommended, and most people that have tried them have ended up taking them out, as they're much more trouble than they seem to be worth for their limited filtration ability. My 2 cents.

Hey MTAR, Once you go sump, you'll never go back. OK, bad joke, but with a lot of truth in it. I debated for a long time setting up the 180g, and explored many, many, many filter options. Since I was going with sand and a lot of rock, and wanted a lot of stock, I decided to go the sump route (50g). It's not that loud, and when the canopy is finished it will be quiet enough. Advantage of sump...excellent filtration, very little cleaning of the show tank (with exception of algae growth, etc) and all equipment is in the sump instead of in the show tank ( heaters, pump, bio, etc.). I also have a 90g with 2 AQ500 filters. Both tanks are crystal clear at all times, and fish are very healthy. Once piece of advice...over filter. If you think you can get by with 1 AQ300, use 2. If you think you can get by with a canister, use a small hang-on-back filter as well. My AQ500s are set up with sponge, filter floss, and sponge in that order, in each filter. I like HOB filters for their mechanical and bio filtration combo, which is sometimes harder to accomplish with a canister. Sumps (or wet/dry for us freshwater folks) are great at both. Good luck, hope I haven't confused the issue too much. Feel free to post back with questions, or PM if you want specifics. Cheers.

The last 2 pics definately look like fryeri female, I keep them myself. As for the others, hard to tell. I have a fryeri female that has a bit of iridescences on her face, but other than that she is plain brown & grey vertical striping.

Hey Shawn, Nice fish. Be interesting to see how the buttikoferi works out...friends of ours had to give theirs away. After 6 years, he went postal.

I agree with that, just presenting the options.

Hey Ty, I agree with the internal overflow point, it takes up room in the footprint of the tank...but if you use a hang on style overflow...bada bing, bada boom!

Hands down, sump is the way to go. Actually for fresh water it's a sump wet/dry you want. Water enters at the top of the sump tank, falls through a bio-ball chamber, drops to the bottom of the tank, is pulled over a couple of baffles, ends up in the last chamber, where it's returned to the tank. It takes a bit more work to set up, but it's been the most rewarding thing I've done yet in this hobby. I have a 50g sump on a 180 tank...it's been crystal clear since day one, and the water is perfect. The great thing is more water in the system...the 180 actually ends up with about 210 gallons being filtered...more water means less fluctuation in parameters. I would definately recommend a wet/dry for any aquarium over 75g.

2 A/C500 SPONGES are $10.

The last one could be a female fryeri, hard to tell for sure. Nice pics!

Thanks Rudy, I'll update as I go.

Hey gang, Thanks for the interest, and replies! Here are the full details, from overflow to return... 180g glass tank with right rear corner overflow box, eggcrate grating at the top of the overflow, eggcrate at top of overflow covered with a strip of plastic canvas needlepoint material. In the overflow...DIY durso style standpipe made of 1.5" PVC. Noise is not an issue here. Exiting the bulkhead...2"PVC with 2 x 45 connectors to top of bio ball drip tray. Where the water exits the pipe onto the drip tray is where the noisiest part of the system is right now. There is a mat of floss under the pipe where the water exits, both for noise reduction and to aid the spread of water over the drip tray. Water level in the sump is always kept as close to the bottom of the bioball tray as possible. Return to the tank...mag 18. Plastic prefilter cone that comes with the pump is attached. 3/4" exit from pump is immediately converted to 1 1/4" return line. Return line exits sump on a 45 degree elbow, with another at the bottom of the stand where the return line starts its trip to the top of the tank. Return line follows an approximate 45 degree angle to arrive at the other end of the tank, where it comes up and over, into the tank. This is done with 3 x 90 degree fittings, ending up with the last 90 1" below the waterline. I'm guessing the flow is between 1200 & 1400 gph. Because of maxing out the return line, the head pressure is kept to a minimum. All plumbing is PVC hardline. Now, there is still some work to do. I haven't put a lot of effort into quieting the vibration from the pump/return yet. I will be picking up some rubber matting and mousepads to put under the pump. I will be wrapping the pvc return line with the same kind of insulation that you would find on a hot water pipe wherever it comes in contact with the sump or stand or tank. Biggest noise problem is where the water exits the drain, onto the bioball tray. I've heard everything from using a T connection there (with and without a cap) to putting a ball valve on the drain to regulate the flow, to packing with floss, to buying a canister filter (not an option, I'll live with the noise first). Any, and all, help and suggestions appreciated. Thanks gang! PS. canucklehead...it's a 50g standard wet/dry...purchased from Dennis at Gold's, custom made by the guy that does all his tanks & sumps. Design is very standard, and shouldn't be the issue.