Ichthyosporidium

If you go with what I've always thought for the minimum volume for goldfish is as follows: 2 Gal. (7.56L) of water per inch of fish (base of tail to tip of the snout). 10" average for adult size. Account for substrate, ornaments, equipment, plants, etc. an average to me is best seen as a liberal 20% of the total volume so add that on to the total. so the formula in this case is: 10 X 11 X 2 = 220 Gal. (831.6L) 220 X 1.2 =264 Gal. (997.92L) total Either a big aquarium or a nice do it yourself project for spring...a pond.

While it is possible to stunt a fishe's or any animal's growth under extreme stress, you cannot change the genetic predisposition of a fish or animal by limiting the habitat. You only change the rate of growth. This I will stress, is a generality, as there are instances under extreme conditions where growth has been affected by habitat. The more physical output plus the food consumed equals rate of growth. The less a fish or any animal for that fact moves, the less they consume and the less they develop (growth), that is a fact that was drilled into me when I was taking my B.Sc. in biology. However, that being said, there are variances within individual specimens of the same species that allow for one individual to either excel or be redundant within a certain environment (survival of the fittest). I agree given the criteria on this thread that certain species of fish that I listed may not be the best choice. That is where research and individual choice become important. Sorry, I missed the part in the original postin about keeping them for life.

I buy peat plates. They can be used in filters, as substrate, or even just floating on the surface or in a sump. I like them because they are clean to use. You can use peat moss that is loose but make sure it does not use any wetting agents. I have used loose peat and just stuff it into either a media bag or a nylon sock/pantyhose.

Media is what is in your filter. The 'black sponge you are describing is just that. Most likely a carbon impregnated sponge or fiber pad. Yes it would be ok to rinse in some tank water that you have removed from the tank. It is what I do for any sponges or pre-filter material (ceramic tubes, lava rock, sponges, coconut fiber, poly wool, etc.) One thing, What type of filter are you running as this would help determine the type of maintenance recomended.

All I have ever done is run some peat moss in my filter and I usually Aquascape For Central/South American biotopes with mopani wood and plants. With that, all my fish from that region have always thrived. As for maintenance, all I ever do is 20% water change every week or two or longer, depending on stocking density with only adding a water conditioner.

Interesting thread here. I'm curious to see how your firing method with a tiger torch turns out if you choose to do that method.

Just my input, the Leporinus, bala sharks and clown loaches will all get big (12" for the leporunus and 16" for the bala shark and clown loach). Clown loaches also do best in groups as well. True that they do get to a fair size but tank size governs the RATE OF GROWTH so it would be a while (most likely years) before they would have to be switched out. Yes, the clowns would be better if there are three or more....Sorry for the oversight.

Here Are A few more: Labyrinth fish: Paradise fish (Macropodus opercularis) Some might frown on this one but I think with the general size of the tank mates they would be with, they might make a pretty addition. Blue Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus) Opaline Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus) Gold Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus) Sunset Gourami (Colisa labiosus) Nice if you can find them. Freshwater loaches: Kuhli loach (Pangio kuhlii) Still thinking..... Catfish: Upsidedown feather-fin catfish (Synodontis eupterus) one of my favorites. Striped Rafael (Platydoras costatus) Provide a burrowing spot for this fish such as 1/8" gravel or sand.

Rainbow fish: Boesemani Rainbow (Melanotaeniidae boesemani) Red Rainbow (Glossolepis incisus) Banded Rainbow (Melanotaenia trifasciata) Botias: Clown loach (Chromobotia macracanthus) Always popular with neat markings and personality you can't help but love. Zebra loach (Botia striata) not very common Characins: Headstanders: Anostomus (Anostomus ternetzi) NOTE: This particular species of fish is a great community fish and is so cool with it's peculiar head standing habit. Leporinus (Leporinus fasciatus) Best kept in groups of three or more. Tetras: Diamond tetra (Moenkhausia pittieri) Buenos Aries tetra (Hyphessobrycon anisitsi) Cyprinids: Bala shark (Balantiocheilus melanopterus) Loricariidae: Farowella Catfish (Farlowella acus (SP)) Cool looking and a superb algae eater. There are more so I'll add as I think of them.

Two tricks to using products like nox-ich is as follows: A. remove carbon out of your filter system(s) - Carbon will rapidly remove products out of the water so it is best to remove it prior to the first doseage. B. DOSE for FIVE CONSECUTIVE DAYS. - Although the product kills the adult parasites within three days, as the recomended doseage dictates on the bottle, The cysts that are most certainly in the gravel bed will require additional doseages. It takes about five days for the product to penetrate the shell of the cysts. Five days has always worked for me and the less exposure to malachite green, the better.

KNO3 (potassium nitrate) + S(ulfur) + C(arbon) = Black powder. That is why it is illegal at least in this part of the world and thank goodness. However, bird poo is a good substitute for KNO3, just not in the aquarium!!! I believe you need a comercial applicator's liscence for fertilizers and not just a buisness liscence for lets say a landscaping company.

I would recomend that you prep the surface that will get new silicone with vinegar. I found that it creates better adhesion and is a more tank safe product for priming the surfaces. EDIT: Use pickling vinegar as it is twice as strong as white vinegar.

In nature, a new body of water will naturally take about 7 years to become habitable for fish.....There, now do you feel better? :hey:

I have found that with such long fancy fins that are bred into fish like betta splendins that there is poor circulation in the fins which makes them prone to infection in the fins. Some specimens, regardless of species or genus, are going to be of poor type which further magnifies species or breed prone problems. For example. With certain breeds of goldfish such as moors, you get eyesight problems. other fancy breeds of goldfish such as ryukins can be prone to scoliosis or swim bladder problems. Some specimens will live with no problems and others will be inundated with afflictions It's bound to happen as these fish are all man made, just like Betta splendins.

If anyone wants to discuss the finites of ammonia's effect to the power of hydrogen in the municipal water supply, feel free to start a new thread on that. I understand that it has relevance in the form of preventative maintenance but has no real bearing on this thread as her fish are already in the latter stages of multiple infections. In other words, your not helping by adding more information than the person needs to know right now. Now Rose, do you have an update on your situation?

If you haven't done a water change recently 20% is not a bad idea. Try and concentrate on any accumulated detrius on the surface of the gravel in 'dead spots' that can be found in many large tanks. These are areas that have no circulation and tend to collect organic material. Two reasons to do this before treatment is ofcourse they can be potential sources for pathogenic bacteria and fungi to develop. Secondly, you will be removing any carbon out of any filtration as it will remove your medication. If you haven't changed your carbon in a while it is not a bad idea to replace with fresh carbon when the treatment is completed. Most Mardel products do not have reactions with other meds but do make sure you read all info inthe pamphlet provided. I don't have any on hand right now so I just want you to be sure. Adding a bacterial culture is not a bad idea. Even though erythromycin is mostly effective against gram-negative bacteria, there is some effect against gram-positive bacteria so as easy as the erythromycin is on the aquariums biology it still is good to add a bacterial culture additive. For me it is just insurance but not neccessary.

That's crazy.... To put it in a human perspective, That wound have been a basketball sized wound sticking out our back from below one of our shoulders. Youwza!!! :boxed:

What you are describing seems to me that the fish have primary, secondary and possibly even tertiary infections, all bacterial. First is the redness at the base of the fins. What you are describing seems to be hemorrahgic septicemia, which is bacterial. The second one with the open sores would most likely be furunculosis and the description of peeling scales would indicate dropsy which would also explain the loss of appetite and the laboured / erratic swimming. Possibly, there is potential for swim bladder infection with the laboured / erratic swimming. I don't like to be pessimistic, but the stages of infection(s) that you have described don't leave much chance for recovery. You need a good antibiotic. I've always had good success with Mardel's Marycyn II. Expensive but the best shot you have right now. Follow Manufacturer's instructions and like all antibiotics, a full dosage period should be adhered to lest you create super pathogenic bacilli.... ...In other words completely use the amount and dosages that is prescribed by the manufacturer, regardless of brand and antibiotic type. Best of luck to you and sorry to have this happen to you.

:welcome: from a former Red-Deerite

Wild caught for breeding programs is fine by me but for boasting rights is not. The reason is that a high percentage of wild caught specimens die before they even get to market. I have heard percentages as high as eighty percent which means that eight WC specimens had to perish for just two to make it to your tank. So as long as you are using them for breeding purposes, the sacrifice for the most part is acceptable.

Try and think of this as your fish gave up thcontent in that big aquarium in the skyeir lives so you could continue this wonderful hobby near afresh. I'm sure they are content in that big aquarium in the sky. Like every fish in the world, keep a stiff upper lip.

What ever happened to that puffer? Did the hole ever heal up or did he pass on before it had that chance to heal? Just curious

Hmmm... I'd have to say Red Ludwigia. Either that or a type of Hygophyllia.

Are you planning on drilling alot of holes? If the answer is no then why don`t you get a glass shop to do it for you. But if you want to buy one, go to Acklands Grainger. Quality is important so don't skimp. I would question places like princess auto. For the size you are looking for you are looking at no less than $140.00. Here is the Acklands website: Acklands Grainger Go to POWER TOOLS and then use 'Diamond Hole Saw' in your search query. Don't forget that for the type of saw shown, you will also need an arbor for it which can also be used for other sizes. One last thing is that when you are drilling, You have to be oh so carefull not to have any torsion or your glass will explode as tempered glass has a habit of doing so. RESEARCH the techniques and good luck.