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Is possible to be ALGAE FREE


devocole
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Alright its been 8 months or so since i've been in the hobby. And i've never really been algae free. People comment on how clean my tanks look etc, but that is because i keep them that way. So my question is, has anyone experienced being algae free for an extended period of time? Say 4 months straight etc? And if so what is your formula. Slowly but surely i'm learning the ropes, too much light, too little flow etc, but i need to learn more.

Thanks

Devon

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Alright its been 8 months or so since i've been in the hobby. And i've never really been algae free. People comment on how clean my tanks look etc, but that is because i keep them that way. So my question is, has anyone experienced being algae free for an extended period of time? Say 4 months straight etc? And if so what is your formula. Slowly but surely i'm learning the ropes, too much light, too little flow etc, but i need to learn more.

Thanks

Devon

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There are algicides and such, but I have never aimed to be algae free. In non-planted tanks, I see a bit of algae as a sign of good tank health - of course, if it's becoming unruly, it's a definite sign that something's out of whack!

In a planted tank, I have found that the key is the right balance of macronutrients (mostly) - having enough N, P, K and C to keep plants ahead of the game against algae. In my planted tanks, I've always had a bit of algae, but when I'm diligent on fertilizing and WCs, most people don't notice any at all.

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Okay, I'm not completely algae free but do not have to clean algae. I try to keep everything fairly natural and use fish to help keep the algae down. Mollies seem to like algae as well as BN and regular plecos. If I do get some algae covered plants I trim them and throw the cuttings into my fry tanks. I only went to natural plants a couple of years ago but have been very pleased with the results. Also think that some floating plants will take away the nutrients that algae needs to survive. Not sure if this helps but it sure is nice not to clean algae.

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my pleco pretty much eats anything on the walls.

i never see any algae.

gets a plecski's.

if i were you, i'd get one that only grows to about 4-8".

my common will probably get like a foot and a half lol.

he's grown so fast so far.

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Problem with many algae eaters, especially plecos is that as they get older, they also get lazier and don't clean the algae quite as good as they used to. Also plecos will only eat certain types of algae, and from what I am finding SAE's tend to be the most diverse on the types of algae they eat compared to all other algae eating fish.

None of my tanks are algae free, but with planted tanks like Jason says it is all about keeping the balance with nutrients, lighting and CO2 to keep most types of algae at bay. But you will still find some algae growing in planted tanks. I just remove leaves and trim my plants when I get algae growing on them, and for rocks and such I just leave them alone. My none planted tanks are ok when it comes to algae, for the most part I only clean the glass maybe once a month, and all the deco I leave to allow algae to grow. I think some algae makes things look a little more natural rather than having everything look completely spotless :D

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In the past I used hydrogen peroxide to get rid of algae. I can give you a quantity that shouldn't damage your plants. The only biproduct is extra oxygen in your water. Use of more than recommended and you'll see plants suffer a lil and possibly fish. I can't guarantee it's safe for everything. And I'm not posting the quantities I use in fear that someone on google might decide it's the best thing out there and administer it wrong. pst me if you really really want. Another algae option is to simply change your lighting.

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So it sounds like algae is here to stay then to a certain extent.

I should do an experiment and be very diligent; dose and WC on a very fixed schedule and see if that helps. Its just soo hard to keep up.

As for BN and siamese algae eaters. I don't like plecos (sorry) and my tanks at the moment are too small, when i get my 50 gallon i want small fish as well, no larger then 3 inches.

As for algicide and peroxide, i imagine they would work but i don't want to add that with fish in the tank. Baos i might contact you about plant rinses with peroxide before adding to a tank.

Certain scapes i don't mind the algae, it fits in, but in others that i have it just does not look good.

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Peroxide can also lower your pH slightly, so you would have to be very careful with the doses you do. I have also read that hydrogen peroxide can get rid of algae, but it's not always the way some people want to take.

If you want to keep down on algae then try these things. Use phosphate and nitrate removers in the filter, only allow lights to be on for maximum 8 hours a day if no plants, don't put the tank near a window, try to get a higher spectrum bulb. These are some ways you can help keep algae at minimal levels. The only way to achieve a complete algae free tank is to always be scrubbing the glass and taking deco out all the time to scrub them down as well. I know many of us want the perfect tank, but no tank will ever be 100% free from any algae.

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Be careful with the hydrogen peroxide- it can damage your fishes' gills. Dangerous concentration levels will vary from tank to tank, so there is no one "safe" amount.

Build a phosphate remover. Eassy peesy.
Use phosphate and nitrate removers in the filter

Anybody ever read up on the history of PMDD (the fertilizer, not the disorder)? Sears and Conlin proposed that limiting phosphates while dosing with N,K, traces and iron would control algae. More modern fertilization techniques encourage dosing (and overdosing) N, P, and K, etc. in certain proportions. The theory is that if the plants have all necessary nutrients available, they will out-compete the algae.

I find that I get more algae growth when I neglect fertilizing than when N and P are at higher levels.

There's always a little algae around. If it gets to be too obvious, then something needs to be adjusted- nutrient or CO2 levels, light duration or intensity, etc.

Of course, with that said, there's not much spot shot of Fluorish Excel won't fix. :smokey:

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I have a 15 gallon tank that has been up and running for 4-5 months. I have never seen any form of algae in the tank. I have a couple plants in there but other than that its clean. All the cleaning i do it gravel vac/water change. And the filter every once and a while. Its self sustaining. Best tank i have ever had.

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I have a 15 gallon tank that has been up and running for 4-5 months. I have never seen any form of algae in the tank. I have a couple plants in there but other than that its clean. All the cleaning i do it gravel vac/water change. And the filter every once and a while. Its self sustaining. Best tank i have ever had.

What is the lighting, filtration, substrate, flora, fauna, do you dose anything?

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Be careful with the hydrogen peroxide- it can damage your fishes' gills. Dangerous concentration levels will vary from tank to tank, so there is no one "safe" amount.
Build a phosphate remover. Eassy peesy.
Use phosphate and nitrate removers in the filter

Anybody ever read up on the history of PMDD (the fertilizer, not the disorder)? Sears and Conlin proposed that limiting phosphates while dosing with N,K, traces and iron would control algae. More modern fertilization techniques encourage dosing (and overdosing) N, P, and K, etc. in certain proportions. The theory is that if the plants have all necessary nutrients available, they will out-compete the algae.

I find that I get more algae growth when I neglect fertilizing than when N and P are at higher levels.

There's always a little algae around. If it gets to be too obvious, then something needs to be adjusted- nutrient or CO2 levels, light duration or intensity, etc.

Of course, with that said, there's not much spot shot of Fluorish Excel won't fix. :smokey:

I also find when I miss dosing with ferts is when I start to see algae more too. Then with my little SAE, ottos, and clown pleco all at work, and after another couple weeks of non forgetful dosing, the algae seems to go away. I could never see keeping phosphates down being any good for plants. Any horticulturist would probably tell you the same thing. In every complete plant fertilizer there is always N-P-K, so getting rid of the P would probably not be the best for plant growth. Excel is one of my best friends -ham-

And peroxide is an acid afterall, so I can totally see it burning the gills of fish.

Edited by firestorm
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I have a 15 gallon tank that has been up and running for 4-5 months. I have never seen any form of algae in the tank. I have a couple plants in there but other than that its clean. All the cleaning i do it gravel vac/water change. And the filter every once and a while. Its self sustaining. Best tank i have ever had.

What is the lighting, filtration, substrate, flora, fauna, do you dose anything?

The lighting is just regular florescent. I am running a aqua clear 30. So double the filtration. I have pea gravel as substrate. I have 5 plants. Not sure what kind. They are a type of bamboo but they don't look like bamboo. But there really hardy and my cichlids don't eat or uproot them. I do put in plant food every once and a while. Not sure if its good but plants are doing fine. I don't use any C02. I do 25-30% weekly water changes. I vacuum the gravel while i do this. Hopefully this helps. I also have 2 small chinese algae eaters. I have to feed them but i still would rather have no algae.

Hope this helps.

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