Cgy_Betta_Guy

Provide plenty of hiding places for the cherry shrimp if you are planning on housing them with a betta in order to give them a fighting chance at survival. I have only seen one of my 7 bettas go after a shrimp and he managed to get a snack of shrimp legs. You might want to use amano shrimp instead since they are larger.

I agree... anymore genetic mods and that fish will become like the ones on The Simpsons.

I use a Fluval 305 in my 31 gallon and purposely direct the output to the surface so there is a very slight whirlpool affect and surface roll. I have read that its best to have the water roll at the surface to maximize gas exchange. This also helps to keep the surface of the water clean as any films that could build up get sucked under. I use to use an air stone but found it was releasing too much of my CO2 which my plants require. Too much oxygen in the water is probably never a bad problem to have.

Very neat! I am guessing that is in the basement? <---hehe... was just thinking that I could literally do what my icon is doing inside your tank!!! That poor guy looks lonely.

wow.... that is a lot of water. How is the tiling applied and water proofed?

welcome aboard! :welcome:

I have done the heat thing as well with no salt and it works too. Just have to monitor the fish a bit more closely in case there are complications with that tactic.

you could just dunk the hoses into your tank and fill them with water, connect the aquastop to the top of your canister, open the valve and it should work from there.

I would agree that ya should test out the tanks ability to hold water outside for a couple days. Once you get the evaporation marks wet/underwater they might not show up as much as you would think. Vinegar is supposed to be very good with softening and removing hard water deposits. A razor blade would also come in handy too.

Hi yhbae, I have seen the thread in AC as well and have played with it lots. Pretty impressive and I commend you on all your hard work and research. I havent checked it out lately though.

As I noted above, in my experience lubricating it will help to seal it as well as make it easier to clamp down. It also will increase the longevity of the O ring itself. In my case a thorough cleaning usually means I have wiped away most of the lubrication on and where the O rings seat themselves inside the canister which causes them to 'stick' when putting the top back on.

Thanks for your input... could you please elaborate a bit and share your knowledge about location please?

Just for future reference in case I ever decide I might wanna sell something... How big we talkin? I have a couple big e. bleheri that are easily close to 18 inches in height and 2-3 inches in diameter at the base of the leaves that I could of parted with

Riverstar Fire Protection in Calgary off Blackfoot Tr by Silver Dollar casino 20 lb CO2 recharge $42 10 lb CO2 recharge $28 Hydrotest $15 requires tank to be left with them for at least a day so it can be dried out prior to refill Guy said they can generally fill while you wait depending on how busy they are and the size of the tank. Think he said its about an hour to do a 20lb tank. Also, the guy I bought my Co2 cylinder from actually got them to build it from a converted fire extinguisher so I imagine they might offer that as a service if you ask nicely enough.

the recipe I have used for a 2L bottle is 2 cups sugar, 1/2 tsp of yeast and 1 tsp of baking soda. The baking soda is not necessary but I think I read that it helps to activate the yeast a little quicker and to keep the foaming down a little. I usually mix up a bottle and leave it out of the tank overnight to allow the yeast to really get going so it builds up pressure quicker. Then I hook it up to a glass bubble diffuser and let it do its thing and replace it in about 3 weeks. I never removed it from the tank in the evenings or anything as I never noticed that the co2 levels produced from a DIY bottle would be enough to harm the fish in either of my 31G or 58G tanks. Not sure how different it would be for your 20G. If you are concerned get a CO2 drop checker which will give you a decent indication of CO2 levels in your tank but will involve creating a base kdh solution so that the color measurement is accurate.

Yup from the TFD order. As soon as it gets some better shoots I will try it in the big tanks. Thanks!

Any one know what this plant is? I thought it might be hornwort but doesnt quite look like the pictures I have seen on the internet so it must be something related. It came with some shrimp ordered and it seemed healthy so I put it into my Fluval Edge tank with a lead weight and now its starting to get a few offshoots. Just not sure what it is. Anyone know what it is and whether it can grow well in low light? (1.3WPG at depth of about 17inches) Edit: of course.. a couple seconds after I post the question I stumble upon a pic that looks like it... anacharis? Anyone confirm?

was it upside down?

Not sure if its the plant you are asking about but the spidery one with the snail on it kinda looks like pogestemon helferi but I cant say for certain since some of the leaves dont look wrinkly as they should. Edit: Doh Val beat me to it!

Just curious... if you goto Hagen 304 manual and have a look at page 8, picture #6 it shows the "handle" for that vertical foam tray insert as wavy on the top and to the outside... is that how your top looks? If I remember right the tray does kinda stick up a little bit above the media baskets but below the rim of the canister bottom. The motor housing itself also has a taper on one side so you need to make sure that the impeller is lined up with the lid on the media baskets as pictured in pic #12a. You might also want to try dry fitting the top onto the canister bottom by removing the big O ring from the motor head housing (pic #10 from that same page) or lubricating it and the inner lip of the canister bottom with vegetable oil or silicon lubricant just to see if it will clamp down fully onto the canister bottom. I know that on the used 404 I bought that I couldnt seem to get the top to clamp down properly after a thorough cleaning because that O ring seal was 'dry' so it was sticking/binding which blocked it from squishing itself into where it seats itself. Hopefully what I have written here all makes sense and is of some help to you....

Any chance that it was inserted upside down and got wedged in there? give it a yank... the sponge filter holder is removable for ease of maintenance and should slide in and out easily.

I know a couple of my bettas grab the pellets and spit them back out but eventually eat them. I think its because the pellets are too hard and hard for them to swallow. They eventually get softer and the bettas will finish them off.

cool.... but .... where are the pictures? :well:

I read a bit and apparently because they photosynthesize they are able to produce bubbles on themselves which causes them to float and move around the tank. Sounds cool. Was trying to get some from someone who posted on here recently, was promised them but they didnt follow through on a meeting to do the transaction. Hoping that might change soon..

If you notice there is a bit of resistance or sticking of the top motor housing when pushing down or clamping down onto the canister go get a $2 tube of the silicon lubricant they sell for the fluvals. There should be enough in the little tube to lubricate 2 of the big O rings. I bought a couple of used 404/405 filters and the 404 worked until the first cleaning and it proceeded to leak from the clasp areas like you said from those little holes. I couldnt for the life of me figure out why it was leaking and why it seemed to stick a bit when trying to clasp it down but as soon as I took the O ring out and applied the silicon generously and reseated it, the leaking stopped and it was really easy to clasp the top down onto the canister bottom. I figure it allows it to slide down easily but also provide suction to the sides which doesnt allow the water to pass. Might also be a good idea as preventative maintenance to apply it to the O rings around the aqua stop lever quick release as well to prevent them from drying out. I think vegetable oil is also an alternative to the silicon lubricant but you might want to verify that one before trying it.