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Shelving Unit Question


Slough Shark
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I just wanted to add that you can buy bracing kits from any hardware store to brace the stand to the wall. You will want to attach them to the top and like Boom mentioned, you will need to attach them to studs in the wall, otherwise the drywall will not be able to hold the weight if the thing decides to tip over. I also have to agree you should try and get a stand that is about the same length as the tanks so that the weight is distributed to the edges, where they are the strongest. I would try and go with 2x4's, like said if they get wet it won't be as bad as particle board getting wet. MDF definitely is the worst, I have seen the stuff swell and just crumble apart when it is wet, and won't do you much good when that happens. Great idea though....maybe I will try that one of these days :)

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I think the idea of bracing the stand to studs is great, but my parents are not keen on doing it unless it is done by someone who knows what they are talking about (and there are none of those in this house). And thats why I am wondering if the cinder block stand will work, it is certainly cheaper and easier, and if it works I'm all for it- so can the blaocks and 2x4's hold a 600 lb tank?

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That should be fine. Just make sure the plywood is thick enough, I would use no thinner than 3/4 inch. That stuff is very expensive, so nice straight 2x4's is definitely the cheaper option. Any water proof paint such as Tremclad, will seal them just fine.

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As long as it is level, side to side, and especially front to back, then no. Cinder blocks and 2x4's could hold a car. Make sure you place the 2x4 vertically, i.e, the "4inch" way up and down.

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Thanks for the offer, I can't say yes or no to that just yet, but it's certainly an option that I am happy to keep in mind.

Since I think I would have to stack the cinder blocks to get the required height, I do not think that is an option anymore. And another problem, with any stand- metal or custom wood, the studs are not in the right spot on the wall. Is there some way to get around this?

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Yup. Put a cross brace across the back of the stand. Horizontally from back corner to back corner, secured well to the stand (bolts if metal, #8 or#10 screws for wood). Then all you have to do is secure that cross brace to wherever there is a stud in the wall. Studs in most homes are 16" on center (from center of one stud to the next) but sometimes 24" on center for outside walls or basements. That way you can place the stand anywhere on a wall and the corners don't have to match up with the stud locations. Use a stud finder if you have one or can borrow one, takes the guesswork out.

Hope that makes sense.

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Thanks for the offer, I can't say yes or no to that just yet, but it's certainly an option that I am happy to keep in mind.

Since I think I would have to stack the cinder blocks to get the required height, I do not think that is an option anymore. And another problem, with any stand- metal or custom wood, the studs are not in the right spot on the wall. Is there some way to get around this?

How much room do you have where you are putting this stand? Do you really need to have all three tanks stacked, or would it be okay with two tanks on one shelf (10+50) and the 30 by itself? I have my rack 3 levels high and I have to stand on my toes to look at the fish on the top shelf. If you give me a general idea on how much room you have available, and how you want the tanks to be placed I might be able to give you some ideas (a blueprint maybe) and material costs.

One option is to have the 2 36" tanks back to back, that is if you have room to have them stick out 36" from the wall but still have walking space around. I find this to be a very practical solution as I have a stand with 2 20 gallon tanks back to back. Oh and then you will have room for another three 20 gallon tanks underneath he he. in your case the stand would be approx 36"x36". To add a couple of 2"x3" coming up in the middle between the tanks would be easy and your stereo could sit on top of it all.

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I'm no expert but what i would do is make the front a bit taller than the back so that if it were to ever want to topple it would go and hit the wall behind it so if you place it right agaisnt the wall at the top then it shouldn't move at all. Any thoughts on this from someone who knows tanks and stands? I hope this solves the bolting to wall problem

L

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I'm no expert but what i would do is make the front a bit taller than the back so that if it were to ever want to topple it would go and hit the wall behind it so if you place it right agaisnt the wall at the top then it shouldn't move at all. Any thoughts on this from someone who knows tanks and stands? I hope this solves the bolting to wall problem

L

I will politely disagree with Ishkabod on this one...

I think that as close to level is best. There is some thought that having a tank even on a slight level can put pressure on a particular panel (i.e. back or side) that it may not have been designed for and instead of falling, you have a seal rupture with equally as disastrous results. As level as possible would be my suggestion.

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Hmmm...

Well what I can provide now are measurements. There is 48" of room from my desk to the wall and at least 80" tall from floor to ceiling (I say at least, because I doubt I will be using a stand taller than that or even that tall to be true).

Does this change anything? What do you think of those measurements Patrick?

Thanks for the help so far everyone, made alot of progress from the initial planning.

Taylor

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Thanks for the added option!

We are looking at using cinder blocks with that marine grade plywood, or laquered 2x4s. Does that sound ok?

Don't spend the extra money on the fancy plywood or lacquered 2x4's. Any 1\2' plywood, of fence boards, twoxfours etc, will work fine with cinderblocks. Support the span every four feet and you'll be fine.

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