corrosionjerry Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 I have a 75G that I want break down and restart... I thought I would repair the silicon at the same time... There is a little bit of algae creep that is starting to occur. Can I cut the silicon along the edges and remove the exposed silcon where the creeping is occuring and leave the connective silicon... I cant imagine taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 (edited) You can do that. It is the silicon between the panes that hold the tank together, but really it should be fine. If your just replace the bead inside the tank, you're basically making it look nice again. However, I guess you would be replacing the silicon that protects the bond that holds the tank together. Edited February 15, 2010 by jvision Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingin' It Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 If you just use the silicone removing tool to remove the "inside" silicone that'll be perfect. I've not even ventured into taking apart the silicone that holds the glass together, I can only imagine the headaches involved in that! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleshgear Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 i have done it both ways. and if you are not completly taking the tank apart be careful not to cut the silicone that is between the glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The-Influence Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 I just redid the inside of my two hex tanks with no problems what so ever . It's perfectly fine ta do Blake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My3KidsDad Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 (edited) I have a 75G that I want break down and restart... I thought I would repair the silicon at the same time... There is a little bit of algae creep that is starting to occur. Can I cut the silicon along the edges and remove the exposed silcon where the creeping is occuring and leave the connective silicon... I cant imagine taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together... CorrosionJerry- I sugggest you cut it all out as new silicone will not always adhere to old silicone and it will look better if you have a straight edge too. I found a three pack of 35 year silicone for $9.99 at Home Hardware, confirmed safe for aquariums on the tube itself- thanks for the tip jvision. Jason at the contractors counter verified that the silicone was good for tanks- he has his own aquariums and has used this silicone over and over. After watching a video on youtube on silicone use in an aquarium, I finished cutting out the old moldy exposed silicone back to the flat edge of the tank joints. I used a plain replaceable-razor blade scraper for the open edges, careful to not cut into the joints themselves as they are still in perfect condition (look at the joints from the outside of the tank to confirm the joint is still tight and without fault.) I also used a construction razor cutting tool to reach into the corners cleanly. We made up some water and vinegar in a spray bottle to clean the glass over and over as you clean the joints. If you have a shop vac use it to clean the tiny bits out of the tank- get the tank as clean as you can. Finally I used some varsol to wipe the cleaned joints and get rid of any oils, etc. from my hands that might contaminate the joint. Next I took the video's advice and took the time to use painting edge tape to tape the outside edge of each joint both sides in order to get a clean straight edge after smoothing the silicone. I cut a tube of the silicone and administered the bead in each joint, careful to make good contact with the joint itself. I did not want a huge bead- the 1/4" tube opening suggested was sufficient. Try to use the nozzle to fill the joint cleanly. Next I wet a paper towel, moistened my finger, and smoothed the silicone down into the joint with one motion on each joint. It turned out a smaller amount of silicone than the original fat bead. Finally I double checked all the joints and when satisfied they looked good I carefully pulled the tape off. (Do not leave the tape on for more than five or ten minutes or you will pull the silicone off with the tape.) This left a nice straight edge to each joint. Now it is curing and we will find out if it will hold water in a few days. It looks not bad for a first effort. It took about 3 hours for our 50g. tank. The tank will probably need extensive rinsing to clear the cleaning liquids but that is ok. Let us know what you decide to do ok? Edited February 15, 2010 by My3KidsDad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkangel Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 You got all the correct info, but I would use rubbing alcohol to clean the joints before re-siliconing as it will evaporate and less rinsing later. I believe Nick has a post pinned for redoing the silicone on tanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My3KidsDad Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 You got all the correct info, but I would use rubbing alcohol to clean the joints before re-siliconing as it will evaporate and less rinsing later. I believe Nick has a post pinned for redoing the silicone on tanks. That is good to know thanks darkangel. next time. (or maybe this time if it leaks lol.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthyosporidium Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 (edited) You got all the correct info, but I would use rubbing alcohol to clean the joints before re-siliconing as it will evaporate and less rinsing later. I believe Nick has a post pinned for redoing the silicone on tanks. I would recomend that you prep the surface that will get new silicone with vinegar. I found that it creates better adhesion and is a more tank safe product for priming the surfaces. EDIT: Use pickling vinegar as it is twice as strong as white vinegar. Edited February 16, 2010 by Ichthyosporidium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My3KidsDad Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Pickling vinegar it is. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrosionjerry Posted February 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Thanks for all of the advice... it is apreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishkabod Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Check out my journal too it has the link to the thread about siliconeing and i'm sure i added to it a list of things NOT to do when siliconeing a tank. For the larger tanks i'd suggest keeping a section of removed silicone from the one of the sides and bottom to use as a reference for the size of the new silicone and start with a small bead of silicone in all the joints smotheing it down with the handy reusable amazing red and black silicone tool that i know you can get at home depot if not other places as well. Be sure to get even the residual silicone on the surface of the glass that the razors don't easily remove the first time. It's hard to see without a reflection of light off it. I think that's it. Good luck L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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