arixonbarnes

I cut the spout off a 4 liter milk jug to make it wider (so the weighted zucchini would fit in) and set it in the tank, spout up, with some weight in the bottom. Then I left it for a few hours, pulled it out and poured the contents into a pail and picked the bristlenoses I wanted and dumped the rest back in. Might work with your fish as well.

Garage sales are a cheap source for small tanks , especially 5 and 10 gallon. Generally about one in ten garage sales should have a tank or two.

Most canister filters need to be lower than the tank in order to work.

Having crossed guppies and endlers I can assure you that the offspring (even after several generations) are not sterile.

Johnson(johnstons? sp) plastics on the south side in edmonton

They had a stack of sandman 3 stage filters(NIB) at Princess Auto for 19.99 (see page 43 of their flyer) sale effective through February 15/09. Just think about it first ie look at http://www.fishinthe.net/ArticlesandWallpa...dman_filter.htm before you decide to buy one.

They (Western Alberta Aquatic Research Center) have been out of business for about three years now.

I've tried my tanks with and without gravel. I found it easier to maintain large numbers of tanks without gravel. I just use open mesh plastic baskets with gravel to hold my rooting plants.

If you can't find them for rent then Lee Valley carries them (double suction cup) at about $32 a set and each set holds 175 pounds but you will need four sets. You need to press down a bit on them when you are throwing the lever to activate the suction cups. Worked well at Seajay's to move the 135 gallon unit he sold.

The fresh water shrimp can carry a parasite that needs another host (ie a fish) to complete the cycle. Apparently if they have a spot (red?) in their body it is the parasite. The info was either on the government of Alberta or the UofA site I don't remember which. The following may also be of help. http://bio-ditrl.sunsite.ualberta.ca/detail/?P_MNO=2954 Branchinecta mackini (lower) is a relatively large fairy shrimp, about 25 mm in length. But it is dwarfed by its giant cousin, Branchinecta gigas, which can achieve a length of 100 mm. Branchinecta gigas is known to occur in east-central Alberta (it was a subject of a Ph.D thesis at the University of Alberta*), but probably is found in other areas of Alberta as well. Besides its large size, gigas is an atypical fairy shrimp because it is predacious, feeding on a variety of invertebrates. Other fairy shrimp feed mainly on small organic particles including detritus and algae. *Daborn, G. R. 1973. Community structure and energetics in an argillotrophic lake, with special reference to the giant fairy shrimp, Branchinecta gigas Lynch. Ph.D. thesis. University of Alberta. Photograph: Randy Mandryk.

Neither otos or bristlenoses are very keen on cucumber.

Zucchini works - just cut a slice off, stick a stainless steel fork into it (to keep it on the bottom) and set it in the tank.

I don't believe ethel acetate (which can affect plastic adversely) and acetone are very good for removing silicon. There is a product (name escapes me) that will remove silicon (along with some elbow work) but I wouldn't recommend using it on an aquarium.

You don't need a license but you need a very very big tank as I believe they max out at about 10 feet long.

swordtails (helleri) do okay but if the temperature drops into the low sixties you need to pull them out as that seems to be the minimum temperature for them in my experience.

I cut up pieces from an antler I found and dumped them in my tanks. They don't dissolve very quickly - been in the tanks for over two years and don't seem to have caused any harm. Once I get my 94 gallon up and running I intend to dump a very large moose antler (a drop I found) into it.

Lee Valley sells a unit that has duel suction cups with a handle. Capacity is rated at 175 pounds and they are about $31 each.

I lost all my amano shrimp by trying to adjust them to salt water. This site has some good info on amano shrimp http://www.suiso.com/v2/modules.php?name=N...ticle&sid=2

If the fish are smaller chop the worms up. I once had a male betta choke to death on a whole earthworm (and in those days they were expensive and hard to find).

The peat pellets which are wrapped in mesh are very handy and are available for 5 to 10 cents each from almost any store which carries spring gardening supplies and plants.

some types of cabomba do not do well in warmer temperatures (ie the 70's and up). the tropical ones do better at the higher temperatures.

I would skip the Gambusia affinis (Mosquitofish) as they are not native to the Solomons - they are native to the southern USA. They are also very aggressive.

http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/manage...w_FishRoom.html http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/manage..._Fish_Room.html http://fishgeeks.com/modules.php?op=modloa...amp;mode=thread http://fins.actwin.com/fishrooms.html http://www.fao.org/wairdocs/tan/x5888e/x5888e01.htm The above are articles related to constructing a fish room. As you are putting a room into an unheated (i assume) garage I would suggest vapour barriers on all four inner walls of the fish room as well as high energy rated rigid foam insulation. You will find that the higher level tanks will get additional heat from the lights underneath as even flourescent lights produce heat. You will probably only need to keep the room at about 70 to 72 degrees and your lower level tanks will be that temperature provided they are not on the concrete. If you need a dehumidifier they also produce a fair amount of heat as a byproduct. As a suggestion I found the inclination is to put as many shelves (tier wise) as possible so you can as many tanks as possible. The higher or lower the tanks are the less visible they are for watching them and also there is less inclination to perform maintenance tasks on them. Generally two rows of tanks is about right for a fish room for ease in reaching into tanks and doing maintenance as well as making for enjoyable viewing without crouching or craning to see the tanks. In a house the inner walls do not need a vapour barrier and neither does the ceiling but in a garage I would be inclined to insulate and vapour barrier the ceiling as well otherwise you will get moisture into your garage which will raise hell with your tools etc. .

The recommendation is a maximum of a 1/2 ph (0.5) at a time so I would suggest you do the water changes slowly over a period of 3 to 4 days.

In livebearers they do not retain both sets of sexual organs. Females cannot become males or vice versa. Sometimes females can develop a gonopodium (sort of) but they don't have testes. If a female seems to become a male a and breeds some females then it was actually just a male that was slow to develop.